Tanzania met calmly, without emotion. Or perhaps it was the effect of apathy, rolled after the difficulties encountered. The tropical nature is no longer satisfied. At the sight of the natives decorated with spears, I did not want to climb behind the camera. Why Nevertheless, not all Africans will save enough money!
The road was narrow, but flat, covered with asphalt. Alex advised to stay closer to his center so as not to hit a stupid animal that suddenly jumped out of the bushes. That’s what I did, but I did not see wild animals – they must have hid in national parks and hit them only by buying a ticket. But on the way met wild buses. They also crossed the center, with a wild roar that jumped from behind and strained to push me to the side. In the city of Arusha, it rained heavily. We were quite wet and decided to stop for the night. We were greeted by Alexey’s acquaintances: a Tanzanian gynecologist who studied in Russia and his Russian wife. Her name is Marina. The doctor worked hard to provide Marina with everything she needed. And she was dying of boredom at home, reading books and watching TV shows on television. The doctor advised to be wary of accidental links with Tanzanian women, as about 80% of the women who turned to him were diagnosed with AIDS. I was calm for myself – I did not really like Tanzanians. But even being in a Tanzanian hospital was risky. Blood transfusions, dirty needles and even a visit to the dentist could lead to a tragic end.
From Arusha, we headed for the city of Moshi, at the foot of Kilimanjaro. Alexey intended to climb the highest peak in Africa. I was indifferent to that. Pay a lot of money so that, in the interest of a “nudge” for a few days, you submit to rigorous physical tests and even risks? Nevertheless, Kilimanjaro remains a place of pilgrimage for the romantic fools of the whole world. Some are professional climbers. Others are adventurous teapots, many of which are laid on a stretcher. The guides crowd around the entrance to the park, persuading newcomers to accompany them. You can not refuse the services of a guide. But you can choose and negotiate. Although meeting the amount of less than $ 1000 for the climb will not be easy.
After reviewing all the proposals, we headed to the Tanzanian capital, a city with a strangely Muslim name, Dar es Salaam . It was almost a civilized city. Beggars, gangsters and homeless cows did not roam the street. But there were good restaurants, hotels and “cultural life”. There was even a Russian cultural center in which Russian ballet came on tour. By opening speeches organized a banquet. There were boiled potatoes in a saucepan, red caviar sandwiches, marinated cucumbers. A smiling Tanzanian with a round face in his shirt poured wine into plastic cups.
In the cultural center, I managed to meet an interesting person. David Zhorzholadze , a Russian of Georgian origin – professional hunters. He catches animals for zoos, shops and private collections. The only white hunter in Tanzania, David accepts orders of all sizes and complexities: from an elephant to a small lizard. In the quarantine center, where he keeps animals caught live zebras, antelopes, baboons, genet, the aardubes, pythons, vipers and giant spiders. And hyena guards keep the territory.
Wildlife trade is one of Tanzania’s main revenues. Here and fees for Kilimanjaro climbing, park tours and animal hunting. Due to political problems (simply massacres) in neighboring Kenya, tourist flows began to be redirected towards Tanzania. In Dar-es-Salaam, they began to seriously consider: has Tanzania become the leading country in East Africa?
From Dar es Salaam , ferries reach the medieval center of the Slave Trade Island of Zanzibar. From there you can sail to Comoros and Madagascar. But there are no regular passenger ships there – you have to negotiate with the cargo.
From the capital, you can reach the city of Bagamoyo , the former center of “German Africa”. Colonial architecture has been preserved in Bagamoyo . The beaches are occupied by fishermen and approaches to tourist sites are guides and sellers of souvenirs. Numismatists can buy cheap old German coins. In general, the spirit of desolation hovers over the Bahamayo . This had to be the reason for the rain and lack of tourists. Even ever-gay guides and sellers looked sadly at the only stranger – knowing that a lot of money would not work today.
In Dar es Salaam, Alexey and I broke up. He went on to conquer Kilimanjaro, then to Kenya for personal belongings. And I moved south, waiting for the release of Alexei and his catch up.
The ride was easy and even interesting. The road to Malawi passed through Iringa National Park. There are really baboons and even elephants who jumped on the road. We had to stop and wait for the animals to leave the road.