It was Monday, July 20, 1998 in the morning.
I woke up at 8:30, while I was washing, I had breakfast, I spoke with Katya – it was already 14h local time. Kate gave a map of the reserve. He folded a first aid kit, clothes, a camera, a plastic bottle, a cup and soap. I thought about it and I took more books in PVP and “VV” in case I discovered the stolibists .
The upstream trail has been maintained in good condition. – The forests that are there pass by a service station and the new Russians in jeeps, for a fee. It was quite difficult to walk 5 km, but there are very scenic views around the road. In the gorges of the mountain, all slopes are covered with lush forests, beautiful butterflies fly, there are chipmunks.
Along the road, equipped with recreational areas, garbage cans. Many posters calling for a cautious attitude towards nature, especially on the reserve. Many special signs signaling a dangerous tick of Entsifalitnom – the outline of a person waving his clothes and his signature: “DO NOT LOOK FOR A TICK ??” Before the crossing, the road winds and pedestrians take the path called ” Pykhtun “.
There is a closed kiosk on the pass. Apparently, at the time of a large influx of tourists, they sell souvenirs. From the kiosk, on the left, paths start, along which I crossed the pine forest to the foot of the first pillar.
The “pillar” turned out to be a pretty big rock. After careful examination, it is clear that the rock is composed of individual blocks, crushed by winds and rains. Huge stones, like cubes of giant toys, were placed on top of each other, sometimes in very unexpected poses. The reason “all this is not” has not collapsed for hundreds of years. Since the tsarist period, the pillars are a favorite place for climbers. This is evidenced by many inscriptions such as “HERE WAS YOU. 1904. and later. Now, the pillars are a natural reserve. You can climb there, but without lighting a fire or installing a tent. However, in summer, you can spend the night in many niches under the projections, bedding “for more comfort” and a foam mat.
The most “popular” pillars are clearly visible ways to climb. Despite the fact that no one uses attachments or assurances, Stolbist’s legs and back polished the stone in the most practical places. Thus, along the “clear” trails, I tried to climb “immediately” in the first pillar. From the first try, I climbed right “on the front” until half of the position. Then he crawled right and left along the shelf, but everywhere he went through a vertical wall. I tried both sides. The most successful was the third attempt. I reached a small cave from which footprints ran along an almost smooth wall. With rubber shoes, it would be quite possible to “make yourself understood” … But I was in sneakers with a plastic sole, by the way, very old and torn.
While reprimanding sneakers and “a bad dancer who, as you know, …” came down. To climb on the rocks in heat – sweat. Returned to the kiosk. 100 meters down, there was a spring with very clean and cold water. He poured water into a bottle and poured it on his back. T-shirt, too, rinsed off the bottle. Throwing him, wet on his shoulders, he began to descend into the Narym cordon , where, according to Katy, there was an interesting “living corner”. “Corner” turned out to be a menagerie, many animals, once sick and wounded, were locked in cages and now sentenced to life behind bars. A visit to the menagerie is free. I walked in the cages for a long time, observing and photographing many owls, hawks, rodents and predators. Not far away were open cages with foxes, arctic foxes and other animals. In a large cage, lying on a cabin, a bear was sleeping.
It was obvious that the staff of the reserve treated their zoo with great love. Even the inscriptions on the cells, which we used to see in any zoo, have been made very original here.
For example, in a cell is a strain. From below, stick two pink tails. The label reads: “NOT THE MOUSE! A white lab rat honestly serves science, paying for the pitfalls of its gray counterparts. “I remember another sign:” SEA PIG “It has nothing to do with the sea and the pigs.”
In the largest pen where lived … a pig. If a visitor approached the precinct, she ran towards him, rubbed on the gate and growled, as if talking to a guest.
The birds were also very intimidating and allowed themselves to be photographed very closely. It is unfortunate that my camera, the “soap box” of Kodak, does not allow shooting “point-blank” and that not all images are of high quality.
From time to time, around the cells, crossed the eyes of a rat. Menagerie staff explained that in winter, rats gnawed at the cage and, after escaping into the wild, had crossed with local gray rats. Today, even during the day, visitors can see the rats “at liberty”, the most colorful colors and the most unexpected.
Saying goodbye, I interviewed the “breeders” on the pillars. According to their advice, it was worth starting a “conquest” with the fourth column, because the view from it is the most beautiful and it is easier to get there than on others.
He climbed back past the spring at the pass, walked to the right of the first undefeated pillar and headed for the fourth.
Here, on my way, seemed rocks. I go up quickly and see … that the fourth pillar is farther away and I’m standing on other rocks. He got up, held his breath and went down again. Here is the fourth long awaited. He climbed to two-thirds and saw something that looks like a cave – a jumble of big stones, between which there remains a narrow vertical manhole. This gap led directly to the summit. In a few minutes, I photographed “VV” and the PvP as a backdrop to the magnificent landscape of the surrounding pillars.
The view was really beautiful – all around the hills covered with pine forests, like the waves of the green ocean. Among these forests, huge gray stones, like epic warriors on patrol. At such moments, you regret not being an artist or a poet.
Standing at the top of the fourth pillar, I noticed that the second is always higher than the others. The sun is still quite high and will be very offensive if I do not even try to climb the second pillar!
Many paths led from pillar to pillar. I started bypassing the second left, I finally saw a way up. I got up and realized, looking at the map, that I was standing on top of another rock called Mithra. Between Mithra and the Second was a narrow passage on which he suddenly heard music. It turned out that on the west wall, right on the edge of the abyss, the guys were sitting and listening to the tape recorder.
These guys not only took a picture of me with my camera, but they also suggested the best way to climb to the top. Lifting was very difficult for me. Where, judging by the tracks, the Stolbists are walking on all their height, I had to crawl “in raskoryachka ” on four limbs. Finally, I found myself on a certain “plateau” on the west side. The sun has already touched the horizon, but I still can not guess where to climb further.
Finally, I saw two huge plates that, converging almost at right angles, formed a vertical slit 15 to 20 centimeters wide. Along this gap, along perfectly smooth plates, a brilliant trail lengthens. Many climbers polished the boards with their “fifth points”. After stalling my body between the plates, I discovered that my buttocks were exactly on this “track”. So I’m on the right track! We must now slide up. And here I am on a platform almost at the top. On three sides there is an abyss around me on the fourth side – another rock one and a half meters high. But the path to this rock is along the “horse”. This is similar to the top of a village roof, where instead of pebble slopes are stone slabs. There are 13 steps left and you are at the top.
With rubber shoes, with a little courage, this can be done, but my legs, on a hard plastic sole … move to the sides!
To fly, however, 300 meters in any direction …
After weighing the pros and cons, I decided that I would prefer to go through these steps next time.
After admiring the panorama and taking some pictures of the series “The pillars in the rays of the setting sun”, I came down in the same way, but with much more effort.
In the spring alone, I remembered that I had not eaten that day. Fatigue immediately rolled. But it was fatigue “satisfied”, “warming the soul”.
As I walked along the road to return to the first Cordon, a foreign car came to meet wealthy tourists. The car rolled over and I felt dizzy by the inhalation of exhaust fumes. ” Aha !” I thought, “It seems like I’m intoxicated with oxygen.” How will I vote on the track after this reserved air ?!
For dinner, I warmed the buckwheat porridge.
On the 21st of July, I met in the same attic as at the forester’s. I woke up at 10-30 local time . “After yesterday”, joints seriously injured. Having finished his breakfast, he sat down with Katya to compile a description of the pillars of the “Free Encyclopedia”. Saying goodbye, gave the hospital hosts PVP and “Free Wind”. By the way, Katerina offered to “stay with them again, ride the other pillars,” but I was eager to continue my journey.
Before leaving, we took pictures on the porch of the house.
Until the track worked easily. He started to position himself and vote for the Krasnoyarsk hydroelectric power station . The first car, the Niva , was going to Divnogorsk. There, at the turn, I stopped a concrete truck, which was driving very close to the base. But, still drove to the hydroelectric station. We said goodbye to the driver at the door and he turned around and went in the opposite direction.
I took a picture of the dam downstairs and decided to try to inspect the hydroelectric plant from the inside. The guard and the door sent me to the passport office. It was a white two-story building, not far from the bus stop. There, they told me that “these issues” are decided by the MP. Chief of General Affairs.
– Good afternoon . I am so and so. – I introduced myself to ZNPoOV .
– What did you want?
– Why, I thought it would be wrong to be in Krasnoyarsk and not see your famous hydroelectric power station.
– Then you have to call 1-00. There must be a man named Igor. He is engaged in visits to hydroelectric plants. Without this, will not be allowed.
– Thank you, I’m calling now.
– Only quickly, he has a working day until 17 hours. And after 17 years, no one is allowed on the hydroelectric plant!
The local time was twenty-five. Nobody answered the phone. Most likely, Igor has already returned home.
A little upset, I left the building of the Pass Office. Now I wanted to take a picture of where the drawing was taken from the ten ruble bill. The slope of the mountain was rocky and in ruins. Although I hid the backpack in the bushes below, I climbed a long time, dropping small drops of stones from time to time.
The view from above disappointed me because the setting sun was shining right in the eyes and the picture turned out to be of poor quality.
While going down, I caught the “wave” of cars on which the workers of the hydroelectric station went home.
During the climb, I sweat a lot and fell asleep in the chippings. Now, to have a “decent” look, you had to swim. Yenisei for these purposes did not match, because the water drained in the lower layers of the tank was very cold, of the order of +6 degrees only.
The first driver stopped near me said that he could not take me to town because he was going to Mana. Mana is a river, he says, very conducive to swimming.
The highway passed through Manu. From the bridge you could see a lot of people bathing. The water was warm enough, clear. It was only embarrassing to get into the water on rocks with a strong current.
While swimming, I noticed that the locals, arrived by car, went to bathe in special rubber galoshes (slippers?) In order not to hurt the legs. I was also surprised to find that many people were bathing with washcloths and shampoos.
I was lucky, now I’m going to Vpiska , I’m going to wash under a hot shower. And what are they, at home can not be patient to wash properly?
After spraying, I put a towel and a t-shirt washed on the stone. He engaged in the repair of the sneakers, which were falling apart – and looked lost.
After about an hour, he “assembled the monatki ” and voted again in the city. This time, the Toyota driver was driving to downtown. On the way, I asked him where, in his opinion, can I call for free? The driver dropped me off near a dormitory and knowingly said:
– Here at the guardhouse there is a telephone. In fact, they are not allowed to call for free. But you explain who it is, they will allow you.
– Thank you, I’ll do it.
The driver was absolutely right. Vakhtersha handed me the phone impatiently, protecting them from the sign “TELEPHONE SERVICE!”
I started calling the phone books, which were sent to me in the pillars. Unfortunately, none of the potential “inspectors” were at home – everything was in the country or on a canoe trip on Man.
Thanking for the phone, I was about to leave. Suddenly, the waiter, who had heard my speeches, proposed to integrate … home! I asked, “Why would that be?” Wakhtörsha simply explained: “Well, you have to spend the night somewhere, wash, relax …” She started phoning home to explain to her daughter: “… yes, tourist from Moscow. .. yes no, not dangerous … … not a gangster, I tell you … go now, you’ll know – you’ll get to know … ”
By writing on a piece of paper address, we will stop at the right apartment.
The waiter’s daughter, Alyona , opened the door. The apartment was also her friend, who immediately remembered that she had already seen me Sunday night, when I asked passers-by to go to Pillars.
Good here. Such a big city and already in the streets began to learn …
Taking out a wet towel, went to the bathroom. Thanks! A cold current flows from the tap and no trace of hot water …
– Alena, why is there no hot water?
– And it’s gone a long time.
– What does “long time” mean?
– Yes, for several months. And probably until winter is not.
– And how do you wash?
– Yes, everyone is used to it. Who goes to Manu, who is warming at the dacha … Many people wash themselves cold …
“Yes, she ‘s right about Yenisei , I suppose. Already the fingers are numb!
– And what can you do …
I had to bathe under an icy shower, remembering my lack of activity on Man, where everyone was bathed in soap and I took for “wild”. It turns out that they are “cautious” and that I am “stupid”.
After a shower, my appetite immediately woke up. I wonder where he slept all day?
Buckwheat cooked Well dined. The girls made me company for tea. After dinner, Alena went to prepare for tomorrow’s exam at the Institute and I sat down to write a journal.